To Make a Single Ox Yoke, Part 6

The Rough Cut

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A diamond in the rough!


Up next --- chainsaw carving.

To Make a Single Ox Yoke, Part 7

Chainsaw Carving

With Harry the Dog's help....

I refined the patterns and reapplied them to the rough cut yoke.

 

The inside dimensions are the most important. The yoke has to fit the ox.

It is still very heavy, and streamlining on the outside will lighten it up.

A chainsaw has its limits.

When I start correcting my own mistakes I know it's time to move on to a more precise  tool.

Here I am breaking the edge on the withers side of the yoke.

The yoke is beginning to take shape.


Next....I'll see if it sits square on Scout the Ox.

To Make a Single Ox Yoke, Part 8

First Yoke Fitting: Scout the Ox  Rejects My Handiwork

 

 

 

 

 

What is that thing supposed to be?


Next, I will place the hardware on the yoke.

To Make a Single Ox Yoke, Part 9

Placing the Ox Yoke Hardware

Scout the Ox accepts a fitting. 

With a few minor adjustments I'm ready to place the hardware on the yoke. Drilling will be more easily accomplished on square arms (i.e. before they are rounded).

There will be an eye-bolt on the rear facing side. 

And one will be interchangeable --- either top or bottom. This will give the option of three different hitch-points to make sure the yoke will seat correctly with varying loads.

The hitch-point is the vertical distance from the ground to the connection of the pull-chain on the yoke.

Without getting in over my head into physics, I'll just say that the height-of-the-hitch-point changes the angle-of-the-pull-chain; the angle-of-the-pull-chain, while under load, affects how the yoke seats on the ox.

(The heft of the load is a factor as well, as is the height of the attachment to the work (cart, implement, stump etc).)

See my videos about hitch-point at Adjusting the Hitch-Point On Adjustable Ox Yoke (link here) and at Ox Yoke Malfunctions: Adjusting the Hitch-Point (link here).

The eyelet-screws will attach the britchen harness to the yoke. (The britchen harness holds the ox yoke in place while backing, or when the ox puts his head down to graze.)

With the hardware placed, I can remove it and continue the carving process.

The closer to completion, the smaller the changes that are made.

With the holes drilled I can now begin to round the arms of the yoke.

It's time to re-install the hardware and do a trial run to test the fit of the yoke seat. 

To Make a Single Ox Yoke, Part 10

Carpenter's Chalk Test

I powdered Scout the Ox's Shoulders with carpenter's chalk-line chalk, before placing the yoke.

He pulled me around the meadow in the sled to apply some load to the yoke seat.

The yoke seemed too tight at the red X and interfered slightly with the shoulder movement.

It was tight to slip my fingers under at that location.

Let's have a look.

The chalk has rubbed onto the yoke at the pressure points.

The pressure at the apex of the yoke is good, but the ears are too low and tight as previously observed. I would rather see more contact above the solid curved lines.

I will shorten. . . .

. . . . and widen, the ears.

What's next?

To Make a Single Ox Yoke, Part 11

More Fittings